African Greys:

African Greys are the most popular pet Parrot in the UK, they are long lived and it is not unusual for them the exceed 60 years in age. It is also not uncommon for them to attach themselves to one member of the family, becoming very devoted pets. Like all Parrots, Greys are very intelligent birds, young hand reared birds can quickly learn to talk. Greys can also be prone to feather-plucking, which can result from boredom, poor diet, or simply a lack of bathing facilities. Specialist advice should be sought immediately if your bird shows any signs of plucking themselves.

Greys should be fed on a seed or pellet diet, seed mixtures can be purchased from many pet centres and should contain a variety of seeds such as Sunflowers, Peanuts, Pumpkin Seed, Millet, Oats, Wheat, Corn, Maize, Buckwheat, Walnuts, Hazelnuts, dried fruits and much more. De-shelled seed mixtures can also be bought and can prove economical as there is less waste. Bird nutritionists have also developed pellets as a complete food for Greys. The bird should always have access to a consent supply of water.

Along with seeds or pellets Greys should also be given fruit and vegetables on a daily basis this aids in keeping the parrot healthy and happy. Mineral blocks, grit blocks and cuttlefish also provide valuable vitamins and minerals and should be available at all times.

The cage should be large enough to allow the bird enough room to open their wings and exercise fully. Perches should vary in size ensuring that the feet are exercised as well. Never place a bird cage in direct sunlight and ensure that the cage is not in a draught during the night. Most pet owners allow the birds out of their cages during the daytime and they will play quite happily with most toys. Remember that they have a curious nature and will start to gnaw at many objects including books, chairs etc.

Generally Greys do not take happily to strangers; some even turn their heads in order to be scratched and then turn on the unsuspecting visitor for a quick bite!! Even with such habits they are very endearing pets.

Amazon Parrots:

Amazon Parrots originate from Central and South America, from Mexico to Argentina and some islands around the Caribbean. It is thought that the first Amazon Parrot was brought to Europe by Christopher Columbus in 1492. There are over 27 different wild Amazon species, however the most popular species that are commonly seen as pets are the double yellow headed amazons, yellow napped amazons, yellow fronted amazons, blue fronted amazons, orange winged amazons, green cheeked amazons, and lilac crowned amazons.

Amazon’s should be fed on a seed or pellet diet, seed mixtures can be purchased from many pet centres and should contain a variety of seeds such as Sunflowers, Peanuts, Pumpkin Seed, Millet, Oats, Wheat, Corn, Maize, Buckwheat, Walnuts, Hazelnuts, dried fruits and much more. De-shelled seed mixtures can also be bought and can prove economical as there is less waste. Bird nutritionists have also developed pellets as a complete food for Amazon’s. The bird should always have access to a consent supply of water.

Along with seeds or pellets Amazon’s should also be given fruit and vegetables on a daily basis this aids in keeping the parrot healthy and happy. Mineral blocks, grit blocks and cuttlefish also provide valuable vitamins and minerals and should be available at all times.

The cage should be large enough to allow the bird enough room to open their wings and exercise fully. Perches should vary in size ensuring that the feet are exercised as well. Never place a bird cage in direct sunlight and ensure that the cage is not in a draught during the night.

Like all parrots Amazons are very intelligent and therefore require lots of stimulation and variety to keep them healthy. Amazon’s can quickly learn to talk and have the capacity to learn lots of words. The only real disadvantage is Amazon parrots are very noisy birds and they usually chew on anything that they can fit in their beaks.

Australian Finches:

Australian Finches have been bred in the United Kingdom for many years, and we now have many generations of established birds to choose from. In the UK, we have been self supporting with breeding stock since 1965, when the Australian Authorities stopped allowing their native species to be exported.

An adult pair should be provided with a cage 24" long x 15" high x 15" deep, If a larger group of finches are to be kept then their ideal home would be a spacious aviary measuring 6' x 8' x 6'. This should be able to accommodate 6 - 10 pairs of birds.

Australian finches are seed eating birds, specialist mixtures containing different varieties of Millet seeds are available to buy from most pet stores, however the birds will also eat Canary mix, Millet sprays, grass and soft fruit such as apple, pear and oranges, these should be offered on a daily bases. Drinking water, Grit and Cuttlefish should be available at all times.

Like all finches overgrown claws is quite common, claws should be checked regularly and clipped when necessary. Overgrown claws can cause the bird problems when clutching to perches or they may become entangled in wire netting or foliage.

The following are some of the more common species of fiches:

Chestnut-breasted Finch, Cherry Finch, Bicheno, Long-tailed Grassfinch, Parson's Finch, Masked Grassfinch, Gouldian Finch, Star Finch, Diamond Sparrow, Pictorella Finch, Painted Finch, Plumheaded Finch, Yellow-Rumped, Blue-faced Parrot Finch, Crimson Finch and Red-browed Finches.

Australian Parakeets:

Australian Parakeets can live for 15-20 years, therefore when housing a Parakeet it is recommended that you buy the largest cage that you can afford. The cage should provide room so that the bird can turn with it’s wings fully extended. Then additional space should be allowed for perches, bowls and toys.

The diet for Australian Parakeets should consist of a seed mixture which varies according to the size of the birds. A basic mixture should contain mixed millets, plain canary, sunflower, safflower, buckwheat and smaller amounts of hemp, groats, oats, and wheat, an additional dish of sunflower seeds can also be offered.
You may need to add various additional ingredients to the seed mixture, depending on the requirements of your birds. Do not be afraid to try various other types of seeds to establish what your birds likes best, a varied diet can only help your bird to thrive.

Grit, cuttlefish and iodine blocks should be available at all times. Drinking water should be changed every day. Vegetables such as carrots, sweet corn, cabbage, Brussels etc should be offered daily. As an alternative fruits such as apples, oranges, grapes, plums, pears etc. can be substituted.

Parakeets that are recommended for beginners are:
Cockatiels, Budgerigars, Redrumps, Golden Mantled Rosella, Bourkes, Turquoisines, Splendids, Elegants, Blue-winged and Stanley Rosella

Parakeets recommended for a more experienced keeper are:
Pennants, Mealy Rosella, Twenty-Eights, Cloncurry, Port Lincoln, Adelaide Rosella, Barrabands, Rock Pebblars, Princess of Wales, Many coloured, Red/Yellow vented
Blue bonnet

Parakeets recommended for the expert keeper:
Pilated Parakeet, Australian King, Crimson Winged, Hooded Parakeet, Golden Shouldered, Swift Parakeet, Browns Rosella.

Bengalese Finches:

Bengalese Finches are a domestic bred cage birds. There are lots of different theories about the origins of Bengalese finches, however the most accepted theory is that the birds origins was developed over the last two hundred years by Oriental aviculturists. Bengalese Finches have been established in the UK for many decades. They have proved to be quite hardy; they are also free breeding so the species quickly became very popular with most bird keepers. The major problem when purchasing a Bengalese, is that there is no obvious difference between the cock and hen birds.

The housing of Bengalese Finches is important since they are extremely active birds, if a colony of birds are to be kept then a flight measuring 72" x 36" x 72", with a small interior feeding quarters is enough to house 4-5 breeding pairs of finches. For birds which are to live in a cage, please remember that unless you plan to let your birds fly around a bird proofed room every day give them a cage that provides three cubic feet for each pair. A cage that is at least 20-30 inches long should do, but the larger, the better. Remember, this will usually be their permanent home.

It is recommended that you feed your birds on a high quality finch mixture. Your birds will also enjoy canary seed, Millet spray, greens such as chickweed, dandelion, grass and fruits such as apple and vegetables such as cabbage and spinach. Like other finches Mineralised grit, cuttle fish and water should be available at all times. Also please remember that Bengalese Finches are very keen bathers and a bird bath or shallow earthenware dish should be provided at the start of the day for this purpose. This will ensure that your birds have bathed and dried themselves long before it is time for them to roost.

Overgrown claws are quite common in all species of finches. Claws should be checked regularly and clipped when necessary. Bengalese Finches can also suffer from "scaly face" on the beak or legs. The mite feeds on the outer layers of the birds skin usually in areas around the beak and legs. It will burrow into the skin forming a scale like layer which must be treated with a proper cream. This is available from most good pet centres or from a local veterinary surgery.

Budgerigars:

Budgerigars or Budgies, as they are more commonly known, are very popular pets. They rank amongst the top three of all cage birds. Budgerigars were first imported into this country from Australia in 1840. In their native home, the original green coloured bird dominates the massive flocks.

Budgerigars are very good birds for any beginner as they are available from most pet centres and breeders. Unlike most birds it is easy to sex male and female budgies as adult males have a light blue cere (the soft skin at the top of the birds beak) and mature females have brown/tan ceres.

When it comes to feeding most pet stores will sell budgie seed mixtures, these usually comprise of a mix of millet seeds, canary seed and sometimes essential vitamins and minerals. However budgies will also benefit from additional foods such as sunflower, safflower, wheat, buckwheat, maize and many others. Budgies also love vegetables and fruits such as apple, cabbage and carrots. Grit, cuttlefish and iodine blocks should be available at all times; drinking water should be changed every day. Budgies should also be provided a bath, this can be fixed to the outside of the cage or a shallow bowl placed inside the cage. However some birds prefer to be sprayed.

Budgies can be housed indoors in large wire cages or in outdoor aviaries. If your bird is to be housed inside then the chosen cage should have horizontal bars to allow the bird to climb. It is not recommended to house Budgerigars in round cages as the bars are unsuitable for climbing, the cage should also allow room for the bird/birds to stretch their wings.
Caged Budgies should also be allowed out of their cage on a daily bases to exercise. When doing this ensure that all doors and windows are closed and that windows are covered with curtains or nets, otherwise the birds will not know see that there is glass and will fly into it and harm themselves.

Like all parrots Budgies are very intelligent, therefore they should be provided stimulation in the form of toys and companionship. Given the correct care and attention budgies can also learn to talk, this however can be a long process if two or more birds are housed together.

Common problems in budgies include:

Scaly face: This is caused by another tiny mite. This mite feeds on the outer layers of the birds skin usually in areas around the beak and feet. It will burrow into the skin forming a scale like layer which must be treated with a proper cream. This is available from most good pet centres or from a local veterinary surgery.

Red-mite: This is usually brought into the shed by newly purchased stock or from a dirty show cage. The mite does not stay on the bird, but during the day hides in small cracks and crevices in cages or flights, only coming out at night to feed on the birds. An aerosol spray is available that combats the mite and can safely be sprayed onto the birds directly. Check perches and other parts of the cage regularly for signs of the mite.

Canaries:

Canaries are amongst the most popular cage birds kept and bred today. Some of the oldest breeds of canary can date back to the latter years of the 18th century or early 19th century. Most types bred in the early days were local in their origins, hence some of the names given to different varieties, e.g. Fife, Border, Norwich.

Canaries are extremely easy to feed. Today, many companies produce ready mixed canary mixtures. These mixtures usually contain plain canary seed, black or red rape, linseed, hemp, gold of pleasure and blue maw seed. Birds fed on a predominantly seed diet may require vitamin supplements to ensure maximum health. The vitamin supplement can be mixed with soft food for maximum benefit. Canaries can also be fed millet spray, however the birds can become overweight if given too much millet. Greens such as carrots and watercress add an interesting change to the seed diet and can be given on a daily basis.
Cuttlefish, soluble mineral blocks and an iodine block should be available at all times, along with grit and fresh drinking water.

Canaries can make excellent pets, they not only look colourful but they sing beautifully. It is this song which distinguishes the cocks from the hens.
If kept as pets canaries can live to 10 years, some pet birds have been recorded as being over 20 years old. Therefore when buying a cage ensure that you purchase the largest that you can afford, this will allow the bird room to exercise. The cage should be kept out of draughts and temperature extremes and never place your bird in direct sunlight for too long.

Cockatoos:

Cockatoos should be fed on a seed or pellet diet, seed mixtures can be purchased from many pet centres and should contain a variety of seeds such as Sunflowers, Peanuts, Pumpkin Seed, Millet, Oats, Wheat, Corn, Maize, Buckwheat, Walnuts, Hazelnuts, dried fruits and much more. De-shelled seed mixtures can also be bought and can prove economical as there is less waste. Bird nutritionists have also developed pellets as a complete food for Cockatoos. The bird should always have access to a consent supply of water.

Along with seeds or pellets Cockatoos should also be given fruit and vegetables on a daily basis this aids in keeping the parrot healthy and happy. Mineral blocks, grit blocks and cuttlefish also provide valuable vitamins and minerals and should be available at all times.

The cage should be large enough to allow the bird enough room to open their wings and exercise fully. Perches should vary in size ensuring that the feet are exercised as well. Never place a bird cage in direct sunlight and ensure that the cage is not in a draught during the night. Most pet owners allow the birds out of their cages during the daytime and they will play quite happily with most toys.

Cockatoos have been kept as pets for many years, indeed on the islands that they inhabit, the natives often keep them as pets. With their endearing crest, which is raised when they are excited or alarmed, they can charm most humans with their affections. They have a very friendly nature and are very amenable. They also have a reputation for being long lived. When housing a Cockatoo as a pet, an extremely large cage is a must, toys and other activities for the bird to play with and gnaw are also essential. If they become bored and do not have enough human contact and attention, they may resort to feather plucking. If this happens seek specialist advice.

Lories:

By their very nature Lories and Lorikeets are extremely playful, Mischievous and friendly, and attach themselves to their keeper very quickly - waiting eagerly at the door to be fed. They also have very high pitched and vocal alarm calls, so you should always ensure that aviaries are sited away from the neighbours to avoid conflicts. The larger the Lory - the larger the noise produced.

Diet is probably the most important factor when keeping any species of Lory. A lot of people would take up this aspect of aviculture, if only they were not put of by the fact that they may not understand the dietary requirements of the birds. Nowadays many different commercial formulas are available. Almost every article you read can offer a new recipe for either a wet or dry mixture. Most commercial mixtures contain all the proteins, carbohydrates, fats, sugars, pollens, nutrients and vitamins that the birds will need. When purchasing birds from a breeder, ask them what nectar they are using. Ensure you have enough of their nectar to give your new purchase, until you can wean them over to the product you have chosen.

A varied selection of fruit should be given to Lories daily, including bananas, apples, pear, orange etc. Any fruit must be ripe when given, for example when the bananas skin has turned from yellow to brown all of the inside flesh should have started to turn from starch into sugar. This is better for the Lories digestive system. Cuttlefish is available at all times
Bathing facilities should be available every day. Lories like to jump into a bath and wallow in the clean water until they are soaked through. This will ensure that their plumage is kept in the best condition possible, allowing them to wash discarded fruit and nectar from their feathers.

Most Lories can be housed in aviaries measuring 6' long x 3' wide x 6' high, a frost free shelter should also be provided about 2' in length. Galvanised wire mesh measuring 1'x1/2' is ideal.

As pets they can become very attached to their owners. They can provide hours of amusement and 'clown' around when playing. The major problem when keeping them as a pet is the type of cage to use indoors, to stop liquid droppings from being 'squirted' around the house. They should be provided with a large cage, this allows them to climb around and keep fit. They are not the type of bird that remains still for a great length of time, they are always active and on the move. Therefore lots of perches should be provided. They should be cleaned out daily to avoid bacterial infections from developing, and allowed to bathe regularly. They are able to mimic some sounds and often learn to imitate the ringing phone first, causing some problems to their owners.

RECOMMENDED LORY SPECIES:
Green Naped Lory, Swainsons Lory, Goldies Lory, Perfect Lory, Meyers Lory, Dusky Lory, Black Lory, Blacked winged Lory, Blue streaked Lory, Red Lory, Duivenbode's Lory, Black capped Lory, Chattering Lory and Yellow backed Lory

Foreign Softbills:

Softbills are birds which live on either, fruit, nectar, meat and multi-ingredient insectile mixtures NOT just seed. With the ever increasing destruction of forest lands in the third world, it is vital that aviculturists learn to keep and breed many different species of Softbill before they become extinct. For example, specialists are now helping to increase the Worlds population of the 'Bali Starling'. Without their help it would probably be extinct by now.

Unless captive bred in an aviary, the birds will have been imported from their country of origin and quarantined in an approved station, sold to a dealer and then to you. Capture, transportation and quarantine causes stress, and birds need to acclimatise in quarters prepared by you prior to purchasing them. The birds must be trained to quickly accept a new diet, new environment, new atmosphere and captive conditions, with inevitable flight restrictions.
It should not be necessary to heat the birdroom in summer, though a temperature of 25 to30 degrees C should be maintained for the first week. Extra light for dull evenings helps to maximise opportunities for feeding. Cleaning is important but leave for a few days until the birds are acclimatised.
Bacteria, whilst not affecting a fit bird, will multiple quickly and harm, even kill, a weak bird. Specified antibiotics (check with an avian vet first) will stop bacterial flare up. This should be done slowly, and, at this stage, many different types of food should be available to help the bird regain the lost weight.

BREEDING:
Most small Softbills will use different type of nesting receptacle, including open fronted next boxes, hollow lows, canary nest pans and many more. When placing nesting sites in the flights remember to place at least 3-4 nest sites per pair of birds. They should be placed high against the roof as well as 6-8 inches from the floor of the flight. Lots of nesting materials should also be placed around the flight, including, co-co fibre, moss, horse -hair, cobwebs etc. A simple increase in the availability of livefood in the flight, or a change in diet, may be enough to stimulate the residents into breeding condition. Softbills can be nervous birds by nature, and when they start to breed they become more so. It is important that the correct species are mixed - don’t try to mix Fly-catchers with Robins for instance, as fighting will occur. Ensure that you speak to an experienced Softbill keeper/breeder before you start to mix species.

FEEDING:
Most softbills will benefit from more than one type of diet. A wide variety of food will produce the best breeding results. Recommended diets for species can be found at the end of this.

Nectar - Commercially designed nectar powders for humming birds and sunbirds are now readily available. Instructions for mixing the nectar should be followed carefully as nectar feeders can suffer from protein poisoning easily. The nectar should be fed in tubes and changed daily. The feeding tubes should be sterilised regularly to prevent contamination. Nectar feeders can be susceptible to a fungus growth in the beak. This can usually occur when the owner is feeding honey in the diet, but is easily treated.

Insectile Mixture - There are now many type of insectile mixture available. Some are quite fine and are specifically designed for small softbills like Tanagers and Tits. Others are very coarse and contain larger pieces of dried fruits. These are designed to be used with larger birds such as Broadbills, Starlings, Thrushes etc. They can sometimes be referred to as 'Universal Mixtures'. When keeping species such as Toucans and Tourarcos a 'low iron' softfood should be provided. In these specific species a build up of iron in the bird`s body can be fatal.

Fruit - All type of ripe fruit can be used and should be changed daily. Fruit should be washed thoroughly before being used, especially those fruits sometimes coated in wax to preserve them. Most fruits can be offered including apple, pear, paw-paw, kiwi-fruit, melon, star-fruit, tomatoes, grapes (green and black), berries etc. The harder fruits, such as apple, should be chopped up into small pieces so they can be swallowed whole. Bulbuls, Toucans and Touracos will eat more then the fruit is chopped up into bit-sixe pieces. The softer fruits such as Paw-paw and kiwi can be sliced and left for the bird to take a mouthful from. Oranges will provide lots of vitamin C, but in smaller Softbills can scour the crop and cause indigestion. Bananas when fed in large amounts are fattening and should be fed in moderation. Fruit that is too overripe should not be used as they undergo chemical change. (We don`t want drunken softbills – do we?). Advacados contain high levels of vitamin E, fats and oils. These can be harmful to some Softbills.

Livefood - has now become more readily available, in many different types and sizes. It can be purchasd from most pet centres and even by post.
Mealworms - Now available in many different sizes ranging from the ½' mini-mealworm to the 3' long Morio mealworm. They should be stored in bran, and given carrot or thinly sliced potatoes daily. This ensures that the mealworm does not dehydrate before being fed to the birds. Normal and mini mealworms if fept cool can be stored for many weeks. The Morio on the other hand should be dept warm – minimum temperature 65C. Some breeders like to feed the mealworms with a softfood and add extra vitamins, these are then passed to the young birds when the livefood is fed to them.

Crickets and Locusts -This type of livefood should not be used to form the basic daily insectile intake for softbills. Crickets and Locust should be used to supplement the diet. When breeding softbills they should be 'dusted' with a calcium powder, so that this is passed onto the young birds. Many types of cricket are now available. The 'black' crickets will be taken by small Softbills such as Pekin robins etc. Both types provide protein to growing birds and help to maintain roughage levels in the birds intestine.

Meat Products - Many different Softbills will appreciate small quantities of meats on a weekly basis. Apart from the obvious carnivorous birds like the Crow and Jay family, many other species such as Barbets, Broadbills, Toucans, Hornbills etc., will all take small amounts of lean minced beef, heart, to the Softbills universal mixture on a weekly basis. Only feed fresh meats, and remember to remove any leftovers before they start to turn rancid. Mince should be offered in 'marble' size balls, and can be dusted with vitamin powder if the parent birds are feeding youngsters.

Hard-boiled Eggs - Eggs contain many nutrients and vitamins. They should be boiled and used the same day. Most Softbills will take eggs mashed or finely chopped. Once again, care must be taken to remove any unused egg pieces before bacteria is allowed to contaminate them. Some breeders like to crush or grind up the egg shells and include them in the Universal softfood, as a calcium suppliment.

Cheese - Most breeders offer cheese in small quantities mixed in with the softfood. Cheese provides additional fats and vitamins. Vitamin D3, regulates the body's calcium and phosphorus levels. Vitamin B12 helps the intestinal bacteria. Vitamin B2, although only required in small amounts, helps to promote healthy skin and feather production. Cheddar cheese is probably the best to use.

Sponge Cake - Moistened with nectar and crumbled, can be used for all Softbills. If cake is not available an easy alternative is sponge finger biscuits available from the supermarket – it should be changed after 12-14 hours before it goes sour.

Dead Day Old Chicks/Mice - Form parts of diets of Crow-like birds (Jays, Magpies etc). Toucans, Barbet, Hornbills, large Shrikes, Kingfishers and even some species of Starlings will also benefit from small mice (Fuzzies or Pinkies) chopped to size. Different size of mice are now commercially available, and normally come frozen.

Maggots -These should never be considered perfectly safe to use on a daily basis. Some breeders refuse to use them because of the health hazards they carry. When purchased they should be kept in an open top box or tray, containing bran. They should be left in this medium for at least 3 days and kept quite cool, so they can cleanse themselves and remove the black spot from the intestines. This black spot is usually because the maggots have been reared on meat products and may be carrying botulism. Immediately the first chrysalis appears, change the bran since contaminated harmful bacteria will develop. Keep in cool temperature but not in a fridge. If you are not sure if the maggots are cleaned properly, then DO NOT USE THEM - throw them away.

HOUSING:
Most aviaries are suitable – provided that they have greater protection from adverse weather. This can be done by providing removable polythene panels which can be removed in hot weather. Corrugated plastic sheeting is an ideal roof covering. Softbills should be provided with an internal draft proof flight, which can also be used to feed them in. This may be heated and should be well lit and capable of being used as an indoor aviary when conditions outside are harsh. Outdoor planted flights are ideally suited for the smaller Softbills. When densely planted with climbers and large evergreen shrubs, plants will provide additional cover during poor weather. They will also attract insects into the flight, as well as providing natural nesting sites for your birds. Softbill flights can form an extension to the garden, and can have shallow ponds or running water in them. Running water can help to stimulate Softbills into breeding.

RECORMMENDED SPECIES:
There are 4 basic types of Softbill, usually classified by their distinct dietary needs:-

Frugivores - Mainly feed on different type of fruit, Bulbuls, Broadbills, Toucans etc. Fairly adaptable, large appetites and simple to feed.

Nectivores - Mainly species suitable for the more experienced aviculturists, nectar forms the main diet. Humming birds, Sunbirds etc.

Insectivores - These create the biggest challenge. They may be difficult to wean onto a substitute diet instead of just feeding live insects. Rollers, Pittas etc.

Ormivores - Easy to keep, usually adapt to new surroundings quickly and eat a variety of foods, including livefood, fruits and meat (day old chicks etc) Crows, Jays etc.

Quite often beginners to the fancy, purchase Softbills because they look pretty. Before you buy any birds, ensure that you are able to provide the correct diet for them.

Waxbills:

In the wild the normal habitat of Waxbills varies from open grasslands to scrubland, forest clearings and reed marshes. The mainly seed diet is usually supplemented with small insects, berries and even ripe fruits. The main part of a waxbills diet in captivity should be made up of a good quality foreign finch mixture or mixed millets and canary seed. Millet sprays suspended from the aviary ceiling also make the birds work for some of their food.

The importance of live food, such as mini-mealworms and fruit flies, must never be overlooked by Waxbill keepers, as it is essential to keep the birds in good condition. Live food is also essential for breeding as the nestlings are fed exclusively on insects for the first few days of their lives. Some green food such as cress and chickweed can also be offered, as can fresh seeding grass heads from the garden or hedgerow. Grit in the form of crushed oyster-shell, grated cuttlefish bone, grated iodine block, small granules of charcoal, drinking and bathing water should always be available at all times.

Because of their lively nature waxbills are not suited to life in cages, although small indoor flights of about 3ft long by 2ft high by 18inches deep would be suitable for one breeding pair. Larger aviaries can be made to house larger colonies. Planted or landscaped flights connected to a frost- free shelter should be considered. Dense foliage would be beneficial, because it would offer roosting and nesting sites, and would also encourage insects into the flight. Although waxbills need to be protected from cold winter nights, they can be given access to the flight all year round. Additional lighting should be provided during the winter months. This is because Waxbills have small bodies and therefore need to eat seeds regularly to maintain body weight and temperature. A simple florescent light in the frost- free shelter provides enough extended eating time to allow the birds to survive a long winter night comfortably.

SPECIES FOR BEGINNERS:
Orange-cheeked Waxbill, Red-Eared Waxbill, St Helena Waxbill, Sundervall's Waxbill, Red-Billed Fire Finch, Red-CheekedCordon-Bleu, Blue-Headed Cordon-Bleu, Golden-Breasted Waxbill, Red Avadavat.

DIFFICULT SPECIES:
Black-checked Waxbill, Green Avadavat, Violet-Eared Waxbill, Purple Grenadiers, Lavender Finches, Red-winged Pytilla, Melba Finch, Olive backed.

Zebra Finches:

Zebra Finches have been bred in this country since the late 1840’s. They originate from Mainland Australia and a few Islands, such as Timor and Sumba, where they prefer to live in open grasslands that provide the majority of seeds for their diet.
The recommended basic diet for Zebra Finches is a good quality finch mixture. They will also enjoy plain canary seed and millet seeds along with seasonal greenfood such as "chickweed", "dandelion", chicory and seeding grasses. Millet sprays can be offered regularly. Apple, cabbage and spinach can also be offered. Mineralised grit, Cuttlefish and water should be available at all times.
Zebra Finches are also keen bathers and shallow earthenware dishes should be provided during the early morning for this purpose.

Zebra Finches, like most finches, can be housed in cages. The height of the cage it is always recommended to buy the largest cage that you can. 30 X 18 X 18 inches is a good sized cage for one pair of zebra finches. For larger groups it an aviary is recommended.

A flight measuring 72 X 36 X 72 inches with small interior feeding quarters is enough to house 4 to 5 breeding pairs of finches. The flight may be planted with climbers such as Ivy, "Russian Vine" or Honeysuckle. Shrubs can also provide valuable nesting sites as well as attracting large quantities of insects into the flight. These will be caught by the parent birds and fed to the chicks in the nest. The floor of the flight can be covered in grasses, gravel, bark chipping or sand, whichever is easiest for the owner to keep clean.

Common problems in Zebra Finches include:

Overgrown claws are quite common in all species of finches. Claws should be checked regularly and clipped when necessary. Overgrown claws can cause birds to be entangled in wire netting or foliage.

Zebra Finches can also suffer from "scaly face" on the beak or legs. This is caused by a small mite. The mite feeds on the outer layers of the birds skin usually in areas around the beak and legs. It will burrow into the skin forming a scale like layer which must be treated with a proper cream. This is available from most good pet centres or from a local veterinary surgery.